Energy Meter

Metering

Measures real energy (kWh) by multiplying voltage and current over time. Utility revenue meters, DIN-rail submeters, and hobby modules (PZEM style) all do the same maths at different accuracy classes.

What it looks like

Energy Meter

A typical metering — exact shape, colour and markings vary between manufacturers.

Types & variants

Electromechanical (spinning disc)Static/electronicDIN-rail kWh submeterSmart/prepaid metersHobby modules (PZEM-004T)CT-operated (large loads)

Key specs

Accuracy class

Class 1 (±1%) typical for billing; class 0.5S for CT metering.

Basic/max current

A

e.g. 5(30) A — calibrated at 5 A, safe to 30 A.

Meter constant

imp/kWh

LED pulses per kWh — handy for verification.

Interface

Pulse output, Modbus RTU, or RF for smart meters.

Markings

Class, current rating, meter constant and wiring diagram on the faceplate.

Standard values

Single-phase 5(30) A and 10(60) A DIN meters; PZEM-004T 100 A module for hobby monitoring.

How to choose

For submetering pick a class 1 DIN meter with pulse or Modbus output for logging; for projects, a PZEM module gives V/A/W/kWh over serial. CT-operated types for >100 A feeders.

Pinout & package

DIN meters: line in / load out terminals per the printed diagram. PZEM: mains sense + CT + isolated TTL serial.

Example circuits

  • DIN submeter on an EV-charger circuit
  • PZEM-004T + ESP32 home energy dashboard
  • Pulse-counting a meter LED with a photodiode

Common failures

Burnt terminals from loose connections at high load, dead displays with the metering still alive, tampered/aged electromechanical discs reading slow.

How to test

Run a known load (e.g. 2 kW heater) and time the impulse LED: pulses/hour ÷ meter constant should equal kW. Big disagreement = wiring error or a failing meter.

Substitutes

Any meter of the same class and current rating; for insight (not billing) a smart-plug power monitor does the job for plug-in loads.

Where to buy